"No Bologna" Bolognese

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons EVOO – Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• About 2 tablespoons butter for sauce plus a few pats to toss with pasta
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1 rib celery with leafy tops, finely chopped
• 1 carrot, finely chopped or grated
• 2 fat cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 pound ground beef chuck or 3/4 pound beef plus 1/4 pound veal or pork
• Salt and finely ground black pepper
• 1 bay leaf
• A bundle of parsley stems
• 1 cup whole milk
• Freshly grated nutmeg (about 1/8 teaspoon)
• 1 cup white wine
• 2 cups (1 15-ounce can) diced or crushed Italian tomatoes
• 3 cups chicken stock or water
• 1 chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano rind plus grated cheese to serve
• 1 pound (500 grams) pasta, such as egg or semolina tagliatelle