Epimeles — Simple Vegetarian Pho Broth

Ingredients

• 1 large onion (about 1/2 pound), peeled and quartered
• 1 3-inch piece of fresh ginger
• 3 quarts water
• 1 pound leeks (1 1/2 large), tough ends cut away, halved lengthwise, cleaned and cut in thick slices (including the dark green parts, just discarding the very ends)
• 2 medium turnips (about 10 ounces), peeled and cut in wedges
• 1 pound carrots (3 large), peeled and sliced thick
• 2 ounces mushroom stems (from about 8 ounces mushrooms), or 4 dried shiitakes
• 1 head of garlic, cut in half
• 2 stalks lemon grass, trimmed, smashed with the side of a knife, and sliced
• Salt to taste
• 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar (to taste), preferably raw brown sugar
• 6 star anise pods
• 5 whole cloves
• 1 tablespoon black peppercorns
• A 2- to 3-inch cinnamon stick
• 1 to 2 tablespoons fish sauce (nuoc mam), to taste (optional)